Day 1: Fremantle to Quardaring

195.4km / 2058m

 

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Depart the South Mole lighthouse in Fremantle, and have a steady roll out through Perth and into the foothills.  Be prepared for a few climbs into Mundaring, but the scenery is beautiful and you’ll be on flatter terrain before you know it.  Once through Mundaring (where there are plenty of food options and possibly the last decent coffee until Ceduna), you’ll feel like you’re starting to head west.  There is a service station at the right hand turn onto Great Southern Highway, which is the last stop until York, and you’ll move through lightly rolling terrain until you arrive in York, your first country town.  From York, it’s rolling wheatbelts until Quardaring, a tiny town with a pub and a service station that does great Samosas.  We free camped at the town football oval, there was a tin roof covering a few spectator seats to camp under, with running water and some outside power points, if you’re game to wipe the spiderwebs away.

Part 1 Fremantle to York

Part 2 York to Quardaring

Day 2: Quardaring to Southern Cross

236km / 1246m

 

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Waking up in Quardaring makes you feel like you’re miles from South Mole Lighthouse already. Today you’ll roll through the wheatbelt of WA, past tiny hamlets and miles of farmland. The terrain is never quite flat, but the hardest thing you may have to deal with is wind.  From Bruce Rock you’ll head north to Merredin, and rejoin the madness of the main route between Perth and the Eastern States.  From Merredin be prepared for your first road trains, and know that there are a few service stations/roadhouses linking Merredin to Southern Cross.  You can free camp at the showgrounds in Southern Cross. There are no facilities there, but you can get undercover quite easily, and it’s far enough from the town that you won’t be disturbed.

Quardaring to Southern Cross

Day 3: Southern Cross To Coolgardie

187.4km / 888m

 

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From Southern Cross you leave the wheat belt and start heading out into the desert.  You have a short leg to your first real roadhouse of the route, Yellowdine, and then it’s 150k’s of nothing into Coolgardie.  It’s exciting being at the roadhouse knowing you’re about to jump into the nothing between it and the next town.  The terrain is rolling, and if you have a headwind, prepare for it to be pretty brutal.  Coolgardie has 24h service stations so at least you know they’ll be open, and if you come in in the dark, there’s quite a good view when you’re about 30k out from town.

Southern Cross to Coolgardie

Day 4: Coolgardie to Widgiemooltha Roadhouse

76km / 350m

 

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For me this was a rest day.  Another long slog between civilisation, and pretty flat, Coolgardie to Widgiemooltha roadhouse is like a mini-Nullarbor.  The good news, is that the food at Widgiemooltha is great.

Coolgardie to Widgiemooltha Roadhouse

Day 5: Widgiemooltha Roadhouse to Frazer Range Station

196.3km / 952m

 

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Widgiemooltha into Norseman is quite spectacular.  I left the roadhouse at 2am, so didn’t see much until I was close to Norseman, and surrounded by giant dry lakes.  Norseman is the beginning of the Nullarbor crossing, and has a big 24H service station.  In town you’ll find a chemist, supermarket, and cafe, and although I ate at the cafe the roadhouse may have been better.  Also be prepared for the first taps without heads on them, it’s time to start buying water.  Frazer Range is a fantastic sheep-station/paid campground.  I stayed in a miner’s cabin here, and it was great.  The dinner there was great too, a big communal hall with a huge iron fire place, and plenty of people to share stories with.  Definitely recommend Frazer Range over Balladonia based on feedback from other riders.

Part 1 Widgiemooltha to Norseman

Part 2 Norseman to Frazer Range Station

Day 6: Frazer Range Station to 90 Mile Straight Camp

202km / 504m

 

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The first part of the day from Frazer Range is a little rolling.  The first part of the day is about getting to Balladonia Road House, in some senses the first real roadhouse of the nullabor.  A few racers stayed here, with mixed reviews.  I’m glad I stayed at Frazer Range. Once you leave Balladonia and turn the corner, you’re onto the straights of the Nullarbor.  I chose to camp on the 90 Mile straight, the shoulder was messed up with the rain, and it had been a long enough day without pushing on to Caiguna, besides, you have to camp under the stars on the 90 mile straight, right?

Part 1 Frazer Range to Balladonia Roadhouse

Part 2 Balladonia Road House to 90 Mile Straight Camp

Day 7: 90 Mile Straight to Caiguna Road House

66.8km / 51m

 

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Riding the rest of the 90 Mile Straight into Caiguna.  My Achilles were playing up really badly, so I took an easy day, and checked into a room at 10am to try to sort them out.

90 Mile Straight to to Caiguna Roadhouse

Day 8: Caiguna to Madura

156km / 296m

 

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Riding the rest of the 90 Mile Straight into Caiguna.  My Achilles were playing up really badly, so I took an easy day, and checked into a room at 10am to try to sort them out.

90 Mile Straight to to Caiguna Roadhouse

Day 8: Madura  Roadhouse To Eucla

181.5km / 158m

 

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The last day of Western Australia, and the first day of stand out conditions.  The sun was shining, and the wind swung to a tail wind at 8am, as forecast, which meant a sleep in and a good hot breakfast.  Mundrabilla roadhouse is a fantastic stop for lunch, well placed.  I finished the day at dusk riding up the short hill to Eucla, which is a stunning location.

Part 1 Madura to Mundrabila

Part 2 Mundrabilla to Eucla